Sushi Yoshinaga and sake bar Omasake bring Tokyo experiences to Paris

Laidback sake bar Omasake (word play of Omakase and sake) is the perfect counterpart for Sushi Yoshinaga, a Japanese haute-cuisine restaurant. Both are found within 27/4, a three-storey building named after its address, 27 rue du 4 Septembre, in the heart of Paris. More than just a building, it is an ambitious project founded by the young French entrepreneur Paul Dupuy along with Damien Melon and other co-associates.

Dupuy, a Japan aficionado and frequent traveller to the Far East, has always been fascinated by the multi-tenant buildings in Tokyo. ‘Store, office, karaoke box and restaurant… I especially love the small structures filling back streets of Ginza, where different universes are piled from one floor to another yet coexist in harmony. I deliberately wanted to reproduce this aspect of Tokyo in Paris,' says the entrepreneur.

The core idea was translated into the interior design of 27/4 by Sala Hars, the architect duo comprising Douglas Harsevoort and former Toyo Ito disciple Juan Sala, an American and a Colombian respectively. This dream team has reunited following Dupuy’s first Sushi restaurant Yoshino in New York and Sushi Shunei in Montmartre, Paris. 

Sake bar Omasake

Omasake faces the street and stands out from its neighbours’ classic Parisian façades of limestone, with its glass vitrine highlighted by a three-dimensional logo designed by Yorgo Tloupas, revealing a series of illuminated hexagonal frames within. The space age-style interior – 'Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey meets modern Tokyo', according to Dupuy – is made of mainly industrial materials such as stainless steel, copper and concrete, but cosiness is added by upholstered seats and wall panels.

The hexagon motif is repeated on the metallic cover of the menu, which lists a range of intriguing cocktails with Japanese touches, such as Shoga (ginger) Mule and Hojicha Martini. In addition, a selection of rare sake spreads across nearly ten pages. Starters and other dishes feature complex combinations, for example, 'duck, marinated in rice yeast and sake, roasted with black vinegar', offer unexpected yet delightful flavours. A subtle sake flavour pervades the menu, created and supervised by chef Tomoyuki Yoshinaga.

Sushi Yoshinaga

Chef Yoshinaga takes up his position behind the counter at Sushi Yoshinaga on the upper floor of 27/4. At the top of the metallic staircase, a mysterious corridor surrounded by several hidden doors comes into sight. It’s like stepping into a parallel universe in the novels of Haruki Murakami. Behind one of the doors emerges an intimate yet highly graphic space with Daniel Buren-ish stripes.

The warm caramel colour of the maple wood contrasts with the brightest white of the inlaid lightboxes. The lighting creates an immersive moment that goes gradually from dazzling to soft. On the L-shaped counter, there are ten place settings, with a silvery grey tableware specially made by Japanese ceramic artist Masanobu Ando. Unusual to Sushi counters, Yoshinaga’s working space has the same crockery as the guests’, forming an aesthetic unity between the entertained and the entertainer.

Once all the guests are seated, a ceremonial 'omakase' (fixed menu or chef’s suggestion) course begins. A prelude of four appetisers, kicked off with steamed lobster and simmered melting octopus, is followed by a dozen nigiris, including a trilogy of tuna (red, semi-fat and fat). A special mention goes to the quality of seaweed that enhances the maki. Wrapping up the course is more lobster, featured both as the key ingredient and bouillon in a miso soup. The epilogue, a very special dessert, is a trio of matcha ice cream of three different densities, exclusively created by Alain Ducasse. After two intensive hours, sophisticated palates are more than satisfied.

At the other end of the corridor, the T-Room, with a long, waxed cement table, is set to be added to the 27/4 project. The space is reserved for temporary events ('pop ups', though Dupuy is not fond of the term), such as a tea or sake tasting or a private dinner. Finally, a tiny funky karaoke bar, K-Room, with pink and violet light fixtures, is due to be completed in the basement. Navigating from one universe to another in one evening at 27/4 will soon be possible.

27quatre.com