Richard Mille and Ferrari's new watch is barely thicker than a credit card
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari signals a new era of ultra-thin watchmaking
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari watch is a technical tour de force, with a slender case measuring in at an incedible 1.75mm. To put you in the right frame of mind while you stare goggle-eyed at this non-watch-like creation, a credit card has a thickness of 0,76mm or 0.03 inches. That’s thin, and it means that Richard Mille’s tour de force, the mic-dropping RM UP-01 Ferrari, will turn your perceptions of watchmaking on its head. And by doing so, it wins the Thin Trophy by a massive 0,05 millimeters.
At this level, the wrist-one-upmanship is in Mille’s favour, and the scales have been moved by a big margin (or should that be nano-thin?). The previous holder of the ultra-thin championship belt, the Bulgari Finissimo, had its movement integrated into the base of the watch. In contrast, the RM UP-01 is built like a traditional (well..) watch, having a separately assembled movement of just 1.18mm fitted into a titanium case.
The specs seem incredulous enough, but the usual frailty of these tech-packed wafers of timekeeping is also negated through a litany of strength tests. Richard Mille claims the skeletonized movement plate can withstand more than 5,000 Gs of shock or acceleration. Compare that to a Ferrari F1 driver experiencing between 4 and 6 and a jet fighter up to 9. Not thousands.
Richard Mille has a unique position as a manufacturer of tech-deep wristwear of an unusually colourful variety. But trying this on for size in their London boutique, the monochrome feeling on the wrist is as alien as it is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Though not in the usual sense, more like an apparition of a far-flung future of paper-thin wristwear.
Your upended perceptions become literal as the broad case doubles as a strap buckle, the strap clicking into the end of the wafer-thin shape. The movement dictates the display, with a visible balance wheel, dial, and function selector filling the top row. Meanwhile, the winding and setting control rest at the bottom left of the tech-minimal titanium case.
The tech-savvy nature and micro-engineering in any road-or-track-driven Ferrari fits Richard Mille’s ethos, making Ferrari’s black stallion feel at home on the right. At the same time, a tiny pop of red can be seen on the minuscule open dial at 12. Otherwise, the vibe is one of focused instrument clarity. The comfortable wrist-futurism makes you envision piloting the Space X-rocket rather than being ensconced in a Ferrari leather seat, but it feels strangely comfortable.
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari on the wrist is difficult to describe to a non-watch-savvy outsider and flies in the face of retro-rich ubiquity. The only Richard Mille tell-tale detail is the visible micro-bolt heads holding together the titanium case, and it’s a cohesive design. It might take more than £1,5 million to acquire one of the 150 pieces of the RM UP-01, but its mere existence defies belief. After all, we live in an era where 20th-century watchmaking techniques still set our design parameters, and this feels like the future.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
Thor Svaboe is a seasoned writer on watches, contributing to several UK publications including Oracle Time and GQ while being one of the editors at online magazine Fratello. As the only Norwegian who doesn’t own a pair of skis, he hibernates through the winter months with a finger on the horological pulse, and a penchant for independent watchmaking.
-
Gallery Fumi makes LA debut with works from Max Lamb, Jeremy Anderson and more
Fumi LA is the London design gallery’s takeover of Sized Studio, marking its first major US show (until 9 March 2024)
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Brazil’s Casa Subtração contrasts dramatic concrete brutalism with openness
Casa Subtração by FGMF is defined by brutalist concrete and sharp angles that contrast with the green Brazilian landscape
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Level up at the The Residence, Claridge’s new André Fu-designed penthouse
Claridge’s The Residence is a new purpose-built two-tier glasshouse overlooking London’s skyline
By Lauren Ho Published